I'm not particularly good at this stuff and I'll admit I've broken a few things in my day.
Cleaned my first push lawn mower carburetor and got that thing started finally. It was kind of nerve wracking actually because it was my first time cleaning a carb and I just did the minimal recommended cleaning but it sure was a big relief doing it myself rather than paying the lawn mower shop. Read they make half their incomes from carburetors.
Jump starting a battery happens. Lots of things happen. howstuffworks.com gives some instructions, step by step.
Red positive clamp to dying battery's postitive terminal (+), then same to booster battery.
Black negative clamp to booster battery's negative terminal (-). Ground other end to bare metal on dead car.
Start booster car, run for a few.
Start dead car, idle for a few.
Disconnect black negative cable (-) from previously dead car. Then from booster car.
Disconnect red positive (+) from booster car. Then from previously dead car.
Use this sequence to deep clean a car: Wash, debug, clay, and then wax.
Pause however after the wash and debug. Here, thoroughly inspect the surface for embedded dirt, rail dust, and gunk. Make a drawing that identifies these areas because once the claying starts it's pretty much impossible to find them again since they're so small and claying is a rather consuming activity.
Personally I think it's better to clay the entire vehicle first and then come back to the problem areas. They just take extra elbow grease, is all.
A 22-year-old garden tractor gets a new life. That's what happened when I bought my used John Deere 265.
The 17 horsepower, Kawasaki engine, single cylinder, John Deere model 265 is from 1990 or thereabouts. Its 48" deck had been welded back together from a bad accident, and it plus the 42" snow blower, chains and weights are all in the deal.
Steensma Lawn & Power Equipment threw in two new front tires. Thanks.
Are you in Southwest Michigan? Contac5t me. I'm no expert but I can kibitz.
Do it yourself kind of crept up on me. I guess that's the best way to put it. Do it yourself wasn't my first choice for how to spend my free time.
measures AC and DC voltage,
I bought a multimeter and when I got it home I learned the ugly truth that electricians speak Martian. Or some strange language. One with lots of Greek characters. Maybe they speak Greek.
To test something start by connecting the black cord to COM and red to VQ.
The guy at the other end of the Internet tells me my multimeter will solve all my problems and then he speaks a bunch of Martian and at the end says, "See, that was easy, wasn't it?" Yeah right.
Luckily they have a book at the library for me, "The Complete Idiot's Guide", that shows idiot-proof pictures of 0% current flow (the meter points to the left) and 100% current flow (it points to the right) using a multimeter. At least now I know what level I'm at when it comes to learning about electricity.
Multimeters test the flow of electricity. The name no doubt referring to its ability to test several different systems. Yes I can turn the switch on and see if the bulb lights and that's a test too, but electricity is a pretty deep subject and despite all the Greek letters I'm glad there's a cheap instrument available that tests diverse electrical systems for me.
Even idiot systems.
By the way there's a bunch of different names for the multimeter and I'm way past the point of caring. Same with Greek letters and electricity trivia I won't use in a million years. So if you're looking to have a fun argument with someone over the merits of direct currents, you're talking to the wrong guy.
Tackling electrical problems assumes a bunch of things like can I solve problems and can I read technical literature. Yes and yes. The books and Internet stuff I read about electricity figure I already know some basics. Maybe I do and maybe I don't, but I'm still one to boil their teachings down to the bone. So my version of electrical basics may miss the mark sometimes but I got to keep it simple.
I don't appreciate symbols and icons representing things I don't understand all that well. The only reason I note them here is because the electrician gods can't live without their precious symbols, making it hard to read their explanations without a code book.
For example. The power source of household electrical systems typically emits 120 volts of electric current. A wire rated at 15 amps carries that electric current. So that a light bulb device requiring 100 watts of power will glow yellow (or maybe blue today).
Ever blow a fuse? Who hasn't. This example speaks to me: 120 volts times 15 amps = 1800 watts. Meaning I can use 18 100-watt bulbs but number 19 might blow a fuse.
Guess what, if you know the value of two, you can calculate the third:
watts = amps * volts
amps = watts / volts
Direct current flows in one direction. Alternating current flows in one direction for a time and then flows in the opposite direction. Two different systems, see. There, I've already said too much about AC and DC.
Wire colors are different between systems incidentally. All the literature I read contains some kind of disclaimer about wire colors.
Is the sytem direct current, like a vehicle? Battery terminals are red for positive and black for negative. I take it that the current starts at the positive terminal, flows on the red wire to the device, and then returns back to the battery via the black, or negative wire.
The 12 volt direct current battery in my 23 year old Dodge Dakota truck seems to use its own color scheme.
Electrical engineers. Go figure.